Hey, I wasn't kidnapped but i am a long way from home or the water. I decided to stay in this lonely place on my own accord for awhile. You know what my friends, since I have been here, I have quit smoking, (cigarettes and herb) and quit drinking. I am happy with my wife and we will be back in Fl. in a few months. We plan on possibly moving to Italy in the future. Who is up for a surf trip there? Come on Doyle and Los? You went to New Zealand. what do you say? You thought I could surf for long hours before, now I have my lungs back.
And to all you fukkers who want to disregard standup bodyboarding as sponging, why don't you take your silly asses down to Costa Rica and surf Salsa Brava. And do it with no flippers on. I bet your pussy asses would get killed out there. I surfed the left and right stand up there and was never referred by the heavy locals or anyone else there as a surfer. Only as LOCO BOOGIE. I spent 6 months in the town of Puerto Viejo and saved many lives from drowning there. I have seen many different riders and styles. I have been sponging since 1984 and I still have the first Bodyboarding mag to ever come out. It was an excerpt from Surfing mag. Just a little throw in like a swimsuit addition. Nobody knew what the hell true bodyboarding was. All they knew was it was something that tourists ride in one foot shorebreak. My all time heroes have always been guys like, Kavin Yap, Okumuro, and Cerv. All of which ripped and have long been forgotten. How many of you know that pro surfer Mike Lambresi went from turning pro in sponging to getting a surfboard and then turning pro in that. Anybody remember that NBAguythat wore those thick ass glasses and went bodyboarding every chance he got and couldn't see shit without his glasses and got worked every time he went out. Bodyboarding is bodyboarding!!!! Whether your riding on your ass, both knees, prone, dropknee, or standup. Its in your soul. I have stood up for it my whole life. I have been doing it for 22 years now. So what if I dont have contest ratings. I am a free surfer. I surf for my enjoment and no one elses. If I can please someone else and teach them about sponging then great. To say that stand up sponging is not bodyboarding is not only stupid but moronic. I'm only hope that you never surf near me until you can get your priorities straight.
Pura Vida and go get pitted!!!!
Dave Rich
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David Rich
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